Domain > www.kyiv2014.com

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Date	IP Address
2022-01-16	108.138.246.108 (ClassC)
2025-08-04	204.246.191.24 (ClassC)

HTTP/1.1 200 OKContent-Type: text/htmlContent-Length: 7044Connection: keep-aliveDate: Mon, 04 Aug 2025 11:58:06 GMTLast-Modified: Sat, 25 Feb 2023 04:54:14 GMTETag: d0abca114f4cf613351df5f3c6e24c03x-amz-server-side-encryption: AES256Accept-Ranges: bytesServer: AmazonS3X-Cache: Miss from cloudfrontVia: 1.1 05f36da5536f76cd9f7690e9a1b6a1f6.cloudfront.net (CloudFront)X-Amz-Cf-Pop: HIO50-C2X-Amz-Cf-Id: XInpWL5_miHAAXdBLwdnp7qGnazXRsHZXWWTvgobuOhI31Zh6MxfFA

!DOCTYPE html>html langen>head>meta nameviewport contentwidthdevice-width, initial-scale1.0>meta http-equivContent-Type contenttext/html;charsetutf-8>style>!-- @import url(home.css); -->/style>title>Kyiv 2014/title>link relicon typeimage/x-icon hreffavicon.ico>/head>body>div classrow>div classcol-wide>H1>Kyiv 2014/H1>H2>My trip to a post-revolutionary Ukraine/H2>table classimage stylefloat:right>tr>td>a hreffull/101-5447_IMG.JPG>img srcIMG_5447.JPG altOn Peizazhna Alley titleOne of the many beautiful, whimsical mosaic sculptures in Peizazhna Alley (by Constantine Skretutsky), with high-rises in the background>/a>p>/p>/td>/tr>/table>p>On the first week of February 2014, I was laid off.  A week later, I booked a ticket to Kyiv.  A week after that, all hell broke loose: Nearly a hundred protesters were killed in Kyiv, triggering a sequence of events that led to President Yanukovych being removed from office and fleeing the country.  The U.S. State Department issued a travel warning for not only Kyiv, but all of Ukraine.  And at the end of the month, hours before my flight left, Russia invaded and occupied the Crimea, Ukraines southernmost peninsula./p>p>So it was quite a month leading up to my departure.  At the start of the month, with protests intensifying, I did ask Mila, whom I would visit in Kyiv, to think about having a plan in case it wasnt safe in the capital and leaving the country was difficult, especially in the week following the Olympics, the last week of the month.  Russia would have a lot less to lose in cracking down on its neighbor after their Olympics had finished.  That worst-case scenario didnt happen, but it certainly did get a lot worse than Id expected.  When the old government attempted to end the protests, she informed me that the subway was shut down and that a hrefhttps://www.bbc.com/news/world-europe-26268620>the Kyiv-Lviv train was not running/a> due to corrosion on the line.  This was not something I wanted to hear, having initially planned on visiting Lviv as well.  (The corrosion was most likely the influx of Westernized Lviv residents coming to Kyiv to protest.)/p>p>In any event, never have I followed the news so intently in my adult life, or so seriously rethought a trip.  And its not like I havent had other opportunities to rethink.  Between booking and leaving on a trip to Israel, the Second Intifada broke out.  My two East Asia trips corresponded to two disease outbreaks (SARS-CoV-1 and H1N1).  And I passed Gezi Park in Istanbul about an hour before protests there.  Though no one was seriously hurt that particular day, travelers I met there did have to run into nearby businesses to avoid tear gas./p>p>But Mila said Kyiv was safe, everything seemed safe, and Crimea was 500 miles south of Kyiv.  So I packed my bags and — initially with more dread and less excitement than I would have desired — went to Kyiv./p>p>(A word about that spelling: When the city was controlled by Russia, the romanization of the Russian-language name was Kiev, as in Chicken Kiev.  Kyiv, todays officially preferred spelling, is from the Ukrainian. English-speaking media have largely settled on the pronunciation KEEV, since the true Ukrainian pronunciation has a vowel sound unfamiliar to English speakers.)/p>ul>li>a hrefmarch01.html target_top>March 1/a> (Saturday in the air)/li>li>a hrefmarch02.html target_top>March 2/a> (Sunday in Amsterdam)sup>✡/sup>/li>li>a hrefmarch03.html target_top>March 3/a> (Monday at Maidan)sup>€/sup>/li>li>a hrefmarch04.html target_top>March 4/a> (Tuesday at 20th-century museums and monuments)sup> /sup>/li>li>a hrefmarch05.html target_top>March 5/a> (Wednesday up St. Andrews descent)sup>†/sup>/li>li>a hrefmarch06.html target_top>March 6/a> (Thursday at Milas favorite places)sup>✡†€/sup>/li>li>a hrefmarch07.html target_top>March 7/a> (Friday looking at Folk Architecture)sup>†/sup>/li>li>a hrefmarch08.html target_top>March 8/a> (Saturday at Lavra, city parks, and malls)sup>†€/sup>/li>li>a hrefmarch09.html target_top>March 9/a> (Sunday seeing what Id skipped)sup>✡†/sup>/li>li>a hrefmarch10.html target_top>March 10/a> (Monday in the gardens and on the streets)sup>†€/sup>/li>li>a hrefmarch11.html target_top>March 11/a> (Tuesday wandering)sup>€/sup>/li>li>a hrefmarch12.html target_top>March 12/a> (Wednesday taking off)sup>€/sup>/li>li>a hrefmarch13.html target_top>Afterward/a> (final thoughts)sup> /sup>/li>/ul>ul stylelist-style: none; font-size: small;>li>✡ indicates visiting Jewish sites.li>† indicates visiting Orthodox Christian sites.li>€ indicates seeing the Euromaidan protest/camp./ul>p>If you like this, check out a dispatch from a completely different part of Ukraine, a hrefhttps://web.archive.org/web/20120715232609/http://www.worldaffairsjournal.org/blog/michael-j-totten/excerpt-where-west-ends target_top>an excerpt from i>Where the West Ends/i>/a> by Michael Totten, available at bookstores a hrefhttp://www.amazon.com/Where-West-Ends-Stories-Caucasus/dp/147518364X target_top>such as Amazon.com/a>, where the electronic version sells for 99 cents, last I checked./p>p>i>a hrefeu14kyiv.html target_top>View as single page/a>/i>/p>/div>div classcol-narrow>div classaside>div classmenu-category>Index/div>div classmenu-item>a hrefindex.html>Prologue/a>/div>div classmenu-item>a hrefmarch01.html>1. In the air/a>/div>div classmenu-item>a hrefmarch02.html>2. Amsterdam/a>/div>div classmenu-item>a hrefmarch03.html>3. Maidan/a>/div>div classmenu-item>a hrefmarch04.html>4. 20th c. monuments/a>/div>div classmenu-item>a hrefmarch05.html>5. St. Andrews Descent/a>/div>div classmenu-item>a hrefmarch06.html>6. Local favorites/a>/div>div classmenu-item>a hrefmarch07.html>7. Folk architecture/a>/div>div classmenu-item>a hrefmarch08.html>8. Lavra and parks/a>/div>div classmenu-item>a hrefmarch09.html>9. What I skipped/a>/div>div classmenu-item>a hrefmarch10.html>10. Gardens and streets/a>/div>div classmenu-item>a hrefmarch11.html>11. Wandering/a>/div>div classmenu-item>a hrefmarch12.html>12. Taking off/a>/div>div classmenu-item>a hrefmarch13.html>Afterward/a>/div>div classmenu-item>a hrefphoto.html>Favorite photo/a>/div>div classmenu-category>Related/div>div classmenu-item>a hrefwire.html>Kopek, denga, polushka:br>An English-language guidebr>to Russian wire money/a>/div>/div>/div>/div>/body>/html>

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