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head>  meta nameviewport contentwidthdevice-width, initial-scale1>  link hrefhttps://fonts.googleapis.com/css?familyMerriweather|Open+Sans relstylesheet>  title>Ben Gotow - Woodworking and Design/title>/head>style>  body,  html {    padding: 0;    margin: 0;    font-family: Open Sans, sans-serif;  }  h1,  h2,  h3,  h4,  h5,  h6 {    font-family: Merriweather, serif;  }  h1.massive {    text-align: left;    font-size: 5em;    font-weight: 500;    padding-left: 0;    margin-top: 0px;  }  .content {    width: 80vw;    max-width: 700px;    margin: auto;  }  .container {    display: grid;    grid-template-columns: 10vw 10vw 10vw 10vw 10vw 10vw 10vw 10vw 10vw 10vw;    grid-template-rows: auto;  }  .date {    font-size: 0.5em;  }  .padded-on-left {    padding: 55px;    padding-right: 0;  }  .padded-on-right {    padding: 55px;    padding-left: 0;  }  a {    color: white;  }  p {    font-size: 1.07rem;    line-height: 1.64rem;  }  h1 {    padding-top: 65px;    padding-left: 55px;  }  @media (max-width: 1000px) {    body,    html {      font-size: 0.9rem;    }  }  @media (max-width: 800px) {    body,    html {      font-size: 0.9rem;    }  }  @media (max-width: 650px) {    .container {      display: flex;      flex-direction: column;    }    h1 {      padding-left: 5vw;      padding-right: 5vw;    }    h1.massive {      font-size: 3.4em;    }    .padded-on-left {      padding: 5vw;    }    .padded-on-right {      padding: 5vw;    }  }/style>div classcontainer>  div    stylegrid-column: 7 / 12; grid-row: 1; background:url(images-web/me-cropped.jpg); background-size: cover; background-position: 31% 50%;>  /div>  div stylegrid-column: 1 / 7; grid-row: 1; background: #a43d1e; color: white; classpadded-on-left>    div classcontent stylewidth: initial; margin-right: 5vw;>      h1 classmassive>Woodworking & Design/h1>      p>        By day I run a hrefhttps://www.foundry376.com/ target_blank>Foundry 376/a>, a small engineering team        building web applications for clients in the Bay Area and the southeast. On the weekends, my office shifts to a          hrefhttps://www.theforgenashville.org/ target_blank>The Forge/a>, Nashvilles 25,000 sqft. makerspace.      /p>      p>        I build a lot of furniture and Ive found it to be a rewarding blend of creativity and        craftsmanship. For years, Ive been frustrated that well built software blends into the background—its        hard to share and celebrate, and is often replaced or dismantled when the next cool thing comes along.        Furnitures elegance and construction is easier to appreciate, and well made pieces last.      /p>      p>        Most of my work so far has been replicas of Scandinavian mid-century furniture Ive seen on Pinterest and tried        to copy.      /p>      br />      br />    /div>  /div>/div>div classcontainer>  div stylegrid-column: 2 / 8; grid-row: 1;>    h1>Ray’s Dresserdiv classdate stylecolor: #71423b;>August 2024/div>    /h1>  /div>/div>div classcontainer>  div stylegrid-column: 1 / 12; grid-row: 1; background: #dfe3e0;>/div>  img srcdresser/IMG_5154.JPG    stylegrid-column: 1 / 5; grid-row: 1; width: 100%; height: 100%; object-position: 100% 100%; object-fit: cover; />    div stylegrid-column: 5 / 7; grid-row: 1; >      img srcdresser/Slice.jpg        stylewidth: 100%; object-position: 50% 80%; object-fit: cover; />      img srcdresser/Slice 2.jpg        stylewidth: 100%; min-height:0; object-position: 50% 80%; object-fit: cover; />    /div>    div stylegrid-column: 7 / 10; grid-row: 1; background: #dfe3e0; color: #111; classpadded-on-left>      p>        This summer, my wife and I were expecting our first child and I wanted to make a combination dresser and changing table for the nursery. I wanted a softer, rounded look, so I chose hard maple and a design with large beveled corners. To achieve continuous grain, I glued-up a 10 panel, cut and joined 18º slices for the edges, and then angle ground + sanded them to a curve. This was a ton of work and I wasnt able to achieve the effect I was after - I removed varying depths from each piece as I sanded them to a curve, and the a hrefdresser/IMG_5152.JPG stylecolor: black;>result/a> was a sorta spiky wave grain pattern. In retrospect, it would have been easier to make the carcass from plywood and veneer it!      /p>      p>        Ive been taking classes in marquetry and parquetry, and I veneered a cat and two hummingbirds on the drawer faces. I vectorized stock art I found online, laser-cut each piece from dyed veneer, and then pressed them in a giant vacuum bag. (All tools we have at the Forge, thankfully!) Im really happy with how it came out. I learned a tough lesson in choosing veneer though -- the shop had received a generous donation of dyed veneers, and some of them were a bit thicker than the rest. I used a mix of both, and the thicker slices created spots where the vacuum bag was unable to apply pressure to the thinner veneer, creating small ripples in the final surface.      /p>      p>This project also taught me to consider the weight of the wood more carefully. Hard maple is heavy, and the glued-up carcass requires two people to lift. Making it a bit thinner would have been a good idea!/p>    /div>  /div>div classcontainer>  div stylegrid-column: 2 / 8; grid-row: 1;>    h1>Crescent Standdiv classdate stylecolor: #71423b;>January 2024/div>    /h1>  /div>/div>div classcontainer>  div stylegrid-column: 1 / 12; grid-row: 1; background: #40270b;>/div>  div stylegrid-column: 2 / 6; grid-row: 1; background: #40270b; color: white; classpadded-on-left>    p>      I bought a small bit of mahogany that was for sale in the shop and decided to turn it into a replica of a crescent moon shelf by a target_blank hrefhttps://sophiajarlov.nz/home/gallery/eclipse-table/>Sophia Jarlov./a>      This was a challenge because its small scale required precise measurement and because the lip along each shelf needed to be made via bent lamination and glued in place. I used a ratchet strap to bend the laminations against the shelves themselves, which ensured a perfect match./p>p>  I love the way the chamfers on the legs in this design intersect with the bottom shelf. It minimizes the profile of the legs and adds a softness to the form that is reinforced by the crescent curves.  /div>  img srcbathroom-stand/web/IMG_3790.JPG    stylegrid-column: 1 / 4; grid-row: 2; width: 100%; height:100%; object-position: 50% 80%; object-fit: cover; />    img srcbathroom-stand/web/IMG_3839.JPG    stylegrid-column: 4 / 7; grid-row: 2; width: 100%; height:100%; object-position: 50% 80%; object-fit: cover; />  div    stylegrid-column: 7 / 12; grid-row: 1 / 3; width: 100%; height: 100%; min-height: 600px; background:url(bathroom-stand/web/DSC01355.JPG); background-position: 60% 70%; background-size: cover;>  /div>/div>div classcontainer>  div stylegrid-column: 2 / 8; grid-row: 1;>    h1>Window Cabinetdiv classdate stylecolor: #71423b;>August 2023/div>    /h1>  /div>/div>div classcontainer>  div stylegrid-column: 1 / 12; grid-row: 1; background: #dad3c4;>/div>  img srcsideunit2/IMG_2050-edited.JPG    stylegrid-column: 1 / 5; grid-row: 1; width: 100%; object-position: 50% 80%; object-fit: cover; />    div stylegrid-column: 5 / 8; grid-row: 1; >      img srcsideunit2/IMG_2044.JPG        stylewidth: 100%; object-position: 50% 80%; object-fit: cover; />      img srcsideunit2/636D06EB-A042-40B1-879F-EF45E758F7B4-web.JPG        stylewidth: 100%; min-height:0; object-position: 50% 80%; object-fit: cover; />    /div>    div stylegrid-column: 8 / 10; grid-row: 1; background: #dad3c4; color: #111; classpadded-on-left>      p>        This piece was roughly inspired by a  stylecolor: black; hrefhttps://thekrenovarchive.org/>James Krenovs/a> elevated cabinet designs. I wanted a side unit in the living room that would fit just beneath a window (giving us another surface to put plants on!) Id been saving some of my favorite walnut boards for this, and abandoned waterfall edges to put the most beautiful grain and color on the top.      /p>      p>        With this project, my goal was to achieve even and extremely narrow gaps on the cabinets and door faces. The faces are plywood and maple veneer (with some great chatoyance!) to ensure they dont expand or contract, and Im really happy with how it turned out.      /p>      p>        One mistake I made was trying to sand the maple veneer - even though I went up to 800 grit, some of the chatoyance was lost. Reading about it a bit, I should have used a hand plane instead to avoid wearing down and then having to burnish the grain all over again.      /p>    /div>  /div>div classcontainer>  div stylegrid-column: 2 / 8; grid-row: 1;>    h1>Finn Julh-inspired Coffee Tablediv classdate stylecolor: #71423b;>Feb 2023/div>    /h1>  /div>/div>div classcontainer>  img srcfinn-juhl/IMG_0094.JPG    stylegrid-column: 1 / 11; grid-row: 1; width: 100%; height: 50vw; object-fit: cover; object-position: 71% 80%; />  div stylegrid-column: 1 / 12; grid-row: 2; background: #4F3534;>/div>  div stylegrid-column: 2 / 6; grid-row: 2; background: #4F3534; color: white; classpadded-on-left>    p>      I wanted to bring some softer forms and lighter vibes to the living room this winter.      Id been reading about Finn Juhls influence on Danish design, and decided to make a slightly smaller version of his a hrefhttps://www.1stdibs.com/furniture/tables/coffee-tables-cocktail-tables/danish-modern-teak-cocktail-table-finn-juhl-baker/id-f_27728452/?utm_contentcondensed&allowUniversalLinkno&gad_source1&gclsrcds>1951 Cocktail Table/a>.      To make things a bit more interesting, and to prevent the cats from knocking things off the table, I decided to add two floating railings covering the majority of the top.      /p>      p>        The railing turned out to be a wild project in and of itself. After the eyedrop-shaped table top was finished, I used        a ratchet strap to bend a fence around the entire form, and then bent-laminated a railing against the fence.       /p>      p>        One corner of the railing was a sharp curve that had to be made separately. I sliced thick stock into two mirrored pieces, joined them with a large spline and cut the tight curve in on a bandsaw.        To join this central piece to the bent laminated (and more gently curved) arms, I stacked them with a bit of glue (shown at right), cut through the stack to get perfectly matching faces, and then drilled a dowel into each        side and glued it all together.      /p>      p>        For once, I actually had the foresight to cut notches for clamps into the work piece so the whole thing could be glued up nicely.        /p>       p>        I think this small detail is my most technical work so far, and Im really happy with how clean the result was. I floated the railing        with small brass dowels and finished the project with a clear water-based poly to avoid yellowing the maple. It was my first time using         General Finishes High Performance Poly and I had to re-sand it several times to get a finish I was satisfied with. It seems nobody follows        the directions on the can, including General Finishes themselves. Learned my lesson!       /p>  /div>  div stylegrid-column: 6 / 10; grid-row: 2; background: #4F3534; color: white; classpadded-on-left>    img srcfinn-juhl/IMG_0029.JPG stylewidth: 100%; />  /div>  img srcfinn-juhl/IMG_0063 2.JPG    stylegrid-column: 1 / 4; grid-row: 3; width: 100%; height: 450px;  object-fit: cover; object-position: 100% 80%; />  img srcfinn-juhl/IMG_0091.JPG    stylegrid-column: 4 / 8; grid-row: 3; width: 100%; height: 450px;  object-fit: cover; object-position: 100% 100%; />  img srcfinn-juhl/IMG_0084 2.JPG    stylegrid-column: 8 / 12; grid-row: 3; width: 100%; height: 450px; object-fit: cover; object-position: 100% 30%; />/div>div classcontainer>  div stylegrid-column: 2 / 8; grid-row: 1;>    h1>Dining Table & Chairsdiv classdate stylecolor: #71423b;>November 2021 - July 2022/div>    /h1>  /div>/div>div classcontainer>  img srcdining-table/web/IMG_2070.JPG    stylegrid-column: 1 / 11; grid-row: 1; width: 100%; height: 60vw; object-fit: cover; object-position: 71% 20%; />  div stylegrid-column: 1 / 12; grid-row: 2; background: #4F3534;>/div>  div stylegrid-column: 2 / 5; grid-row: 2; background: #4F3534; color: white; classpadded-on-left>    p>      In late 2021 I visited my grandparents in Denver and fell in love with a set of dining room chairs they bought from Denmark in the 50s. (They assured me I could have theirs in a decade, but that wouldnt be any fun...)    /p>    p>      I reversed the measurements from a set of photos and built a prototype out of MDF, cutting and duct-taping the design together to see if the measurements felt right. (They did not, and I threw away some plywood!)      /p>      p>        I quickly realized this particular design was going to be a challenge. The back legs are pitched inward at a slight angle, splay outward as they go up, and join a series of cross braces that are also curved to create a comfortable chair back.      /p>      p>        Building a single chair was going to take a lot of jigs, templates, and trial-and-error, so I decided this would be my winter project and that I would make em>eight/em>. Little did I know it would take nearly 7 months!      /p>  /div>  div stylegrid-column: 5 / 8; grid-row: 2; background: #4F3534; color: white; classpadded-on-left>    img srcdining-chair/web/1.jpeg stylewidth: 100%; />  /div>  div stylegrid-column: 8 / 11; grid-row: 2; background: #4F3534; color: white; classpadded-on-left>    img srcdining-chair/web/IMG_5873.jpeg stylewidth: 100%; />  /div>  div stylegrid-column: 1 / 12; grid-row: 3; background: #4F3534;>/div>  div stylegrid-column: 1 / 4; grid-row: 3; background: #4F3534; color: white; classpadded-on-left>    img srcdining-chair/web/3.jpeg stylewidth: 100%; />  /div>  div stylegrid-column: 4 / 7; grid-row: 3; background: #4F3534; color: white; classpadded-on-left>    img srcdining-chair/web/4.jpeg stylewidth: 100%; />  /div>  div stylegrid-column: 7 / 10; grid-row: 3; background: #4F3534; color: white; classpadded-on-left>    p>      After I had the basic measurements, I decided to build the core H of one chair back. Calculating the preceise length of each piece seemed like itd require computer modeling (and Im trying to keep this from becoming a computer hobby!)    /p>    p>      I built plywood templates for bending and spent almost two months trying to soak and steam bend walnut legs and cross-bars. I had some success, but spring-back varied considerably and some pieces cracked as they dried (especially the cross braces with a tighter curve). I was able to mitigate the cracking by pressing into a concave shape rather than on to a convex shape, and by using straps to distribute pressure evenly, but in the end I decided bent lamination was easier.    /p>    p>      I spent another month cutting and pressing thin walnut strips. I think there were two major lessons learned from this exercise:    /p>    p>1) Cutting strips of the same thickness is ideal, even if it means less yield from each board, since it saves setup time and removes variability in thickness from the final pieces./p>    p>2) I tapered the laminated curves for the legs using a flush trim router bit and a template, but I should have left one layer off the lamination and applied it em>after/em> shaping the piece to hide the grain changes caused by the router revealing each layer of the lamination.    /p>  /div>  div stylegrid-column: 1 / 12; grid-row: 4; background: #4F3534; color: white;>  /div>  div stylegrid-column: 2 / 5; grid-row: 4; background: #4F3534; color: white; classpadded-on-left>    p>      With 40 cross bars bent laminated, I used templates and the tabletop router to cut subtle curve into their faces. I didnt feel comfortable rounding them over with a router because the two dimensional curves made it difficult to align the guide bearing, so I sanded all the cross bars on a spindle sander.    /p>p>      Next, it was time to cut the cross bars to length.      I used the table saw at an angle matching the inward tilt of the back legs and mounted the pieces to a jig that added two other angles - the outward splay of the chair back and a slight forward pitch.      This jig took a ton of trial and error to get right, and I cut the first piece of each set of rungs repeatedly to find the length      that fit between the two legs at that height and rested at the midpoint of their depth.     /p>    p>      I used small dowels to fix each cross bar in place in the chair backs. Even with this simple joint design, gluing up the chair backs turned out to be too complex for a single pass and I had to glue-up one side of the assembly at a time. To square up the clamps and apply even pressue, I cut a ton of small spacers that reversed the inward tilt of the chair legs.    /p>    p>      It took two months to cut and shape the cross braces and glue up the chair backs.      Thankfully, once that was done the remainder of the chairs was easy in comparison!      All and all there were 52 separate tool steps in this project and I really enjoyed      the mental gynmastics of trying to get everything in the right order.    /p>    p>      There was one major hiccup in the front assembly - the front legs splayed slightly outwards to give the chair a clean rectangular footprint. I totally forgot about this until after Id cut 90° mortises in the front legs, and I needed to put a complex pitched mortise in the already-angled back legs. I built a funky jig for the square mortiser and it worked - but required a lot of thought.    /p>     p>      I was working on this for so long, some nice photos got taken at the wood shop!     /p>   /div>  div stylegrid-column: 5 / 8; grid-row: 4; background: #4F3534; color: white; classpadded-on-left>    img srcdining-chair/web/DFD0036D-1585-44C1-963E-CC99E1E3AA72.jpg stylewidth: 100%; margin-bottom: 40px; />    img srcdining-chair/web/IMG_6675.jpeg stylewidth: 100%; />  /div>  div stylegrid-column: 8 / 11; grid-row: 4; background: #4F3534; color: white; classpadded-on-left>    img srcdining-chair/web/6.jpeg stylewidth: 100%;  margin-bottom: 40px; />    img srcdining-chair/web/IMG_6734.jpeg stylewidth: 100%; />  /div>/div>img srcdining-chair/web/AI4A2954.jpg stylewidth: 100%; />div classcontainer>  div stylegrid-column: 1 / 12; grid-row: 5; background: #4F3534;>/div>  div stylegrid-column: 1 / 4; grid-row: 5; background: #4F3534; color: white; classpadded-on-left>    img srcdining-chair/web/IMG_7160.JPG stylewidth: 100%; />  /div>  div stylegrid-column: 4 / 7; grid-row: 5; background: #4F3534; color: white; classpadded-on-left>    img srcdining-chair/web/IMG_7820.JPG stylewidth: 100%; />  /div>  div stylegrid-column: 7 / 10; grid-row: 5; background: #4F3534; color: white; classpadded-on-left>    p>      I failed to estimate how long sanding, staining, and upholstering would take, and it took another two months or so to get all eight chairs across the finish line. (I also didnt realize 2 upholstery foam would run me $250!)      /p>p>        Next time I do a project this large, Ill sand some parts before bent laminating so its easier to machine sand them and learn how to use a stain sprayer to cut down on finishing time. I also wish Id more rigourously templated and sanded the top arc of the chair back, because I sanded them by hand and they vary slightly (and the top profile is particularly noticeable!)      /p>      p>        All and all Im happy with how these chairs turned out, and theyre actually fairly comfortable (which is pure luck -- I spent very little time thinking about the curve depth and pitch and got kind of lucky, I think!)      /p>    /p>  /div>  div stylegrid-column: 1 / 12; grid-row: 6; background: #1e201f;>/div>  div stylegrid-column: 2 / 5; grid-row: 6; background: #1e201f; color: white; classpadded-on-left>    p>            The dining table to match the chairs was a pretty quick build because I promised Jaehee Id have the set done in time to host friends, and I didnt want the table to distract from the chairs.      /p>      p>        I built two ends and two leaves, and kept the slices just narrow enough to fit through the planer. I mounted them to a sliding mechanism from Rockler and built an apron and bracket mounted legs with a simple taper.      /p>      p>        I finished the table in danish oil to match the chairs, but applied General Finishes Arm-R-Seal after it dried. It was my first time using Arm-R-Seal and I overapplied it at first, but after several coats Im confident this table can take just about anything.      /p>    /div>  div stylegrid-column: 5 / 8; grid-row: 6; background: #1e201f; color: white; classpadded-on-left>    img srcdining-table/web/IMG_7762.JPG stylewidth: 100%; />  /div>  div stylegrid-column: 8 / 11; grid-row: 6; background: #1e201f; color: white; classpadded-on-left>    img srcdining-table/web/IMG_7882.JPG stylewidth: 100%; />  /div>/div>div classcontainer>  div stylegrid-column: 2 / 8; grid-row: 1;>    h1>Cute Cabinetdiv classdate stylecolor: #8E5A39;>June 2022/div>    /h1>  /div>/div>div classcontainer>  div stylegrid-column: 1 / 12; grid-row: 1; background: #dad3c4;>/div>  img srclil-boi/web/IMG_7644.JPG    stylegrid-column: 1 / 5; grid-row: 1; width: 100%; object-position: 50% 80%; object-fit: cover; />    div stylegrid-column: 5 / 8; grid-row: 1; >      img srclil-boi/web/IMG_7627.JPG        stylewidth: 100%; object-position: 50% 80%; object-fit: cover; />      img srclil-boi/web/IMG_7623.JPG        stylewidth: 100%; object-position: 50% 80%; object-fit: cover; />    /div>    div stylegrid-column: 8 / 10; grid-row: 1; background: #dad3c4; color: #111; classpadded-on-left>      p>        I have no idea what this is called, but I saw it on Instagram and wanted one! I used this project to clear leftover wood from the shop, and it turned out to be one of my favorite pieces. The legs float slightly off the main frame thanks to small walnut dowels and have a nice taper, which was fun to create using a template and a flush trim router bit.      /p>      p>        If I were to do this project again, Id set the front legs back slightly on the frame and pitch them slightly less. After staring at this for a few months, I feel like this version is visually unbalanced and the front legs shouldnt stick out as much.      /p>      p>        Id also love to try using brass rods instead of wooden dowels to make things a bit more interesting!  Will try to make another one of these soon.      /p>    /div>  /div>div classcontainer>  div stylegrid-column: 2 / 8; grid-row: 1;>    h1>Vertical Side Unit div classdate stylecolor: #71423b;>September 2021/div>    /h1>  /div>/div>div classcontainer stylebackground: #3f2521;>  div    stylegrid-column: 1 / 4; grid-row: 1; width: 100%; background:url(images-web/C9B14370-1582-49B1-8F63-143EB0C574E3.JPG); background-position: 0% 80%; background-size: cover;>  /div>  div    stylegrid-column: 4 / 8; grid-row: 1; width: 100%; background:url(images-web/JPEG image-9CB8704D464E-1.jpeg); background-size: cover;background-position: 80% 50%;>  /div>  div    stylegrid-column: 8 / 12; grid-row: 1; width: 100%; height: 50vw; background:url(images-web/IMG_5303.jpg); background-size: cover; background-position: 71% 20%;>  /div>  div stylegrid-column: 1 / 12; grid-row: 2; background: #71423b;>/div>  div stylegrid-column: 2 / 6; grid-row: 2; background: #71423b; color: white; classpadded-on-left>    p>      I expected this side unit to be a fairly quick build - I cut six foot legs out of 8/4 walnut and then sliced it in      half to make both sides. Unfortunately, I didnt account for the angled grain across the 8/4 surface and when I      sliced the pieces in half they bent so badly it stopped the table saw.    /p>    p>      I had to slice the legs into four segments and laminate them to keep them straight, and had to add new segments to      get back to the desired depth. I was out of walnut, so I decided to inlay some white oak that was lying around the      shop which I think had a nice effect.      The inlay did make the top joint stronger - I left the center slice out of the top curve, and then inserted it as      a giant biscuit, giving the joint two dimensional strength.    /p>  /div>  div stylegrid-column: 6 / 10; grid-row: 2; background: #71423b; color: white; classpadded-on-left>    p>      The front doors are plywood panels framed in walnut and covered with linen (technically they are natural linen      dish towels from Amazon). My grandparents had sent me a random handkerchief from Japan, and I used that fabric as      an accent      across the center of the doors.    /p>    p>      If I were to do this project again, Id laminate the legs from the outset rather than trying to find solid walnut      segments with straight grain. Id also find a bit of a better method to adhere the plywood door panels to their      walnut frames - theyre glued in place and supported by small wood brackets, which doesnt look professional from      the inside.    /p>  /div>/div>div classcontainer>  div stylegrid-column: 2 / 8; grid-row: 1;>    h1>Desk #2 div classdate stylecolor: #71423b;>June 2021/div>    /h1>  /div>/div>div classcontainer>  img srcimages-web/IMG_6639.jpg    stylegrid-column: 1 / 11; grid-row: 1; width: 100%; height: 60vw; object-fit: cover; object-position: 71% 20%; />  div stylegrid-column: 1 / 12; grid-row: 2; background: #4F3534;>/div>  div stylegrid-column: 2 / 6; grid-row: 2; background: #4F3534; color: white; classpadded-on-left>    p>      I wanted to make my girlfriend a desk to match the one I made last year. As we started looking through Pinterest      and Instagram, it turned out she was a fan of heavy, simple forms with a bit of an art-deco vibe. I decided itd      be fun to create a desk with strong (somewhat brutalist) legs that followed the kind of large curve Id seen in      some      art deco pieces. To make things look more refined, Id connect the legs and drawer internally so theyd appear to      float 1/16 off the top.    /p>    p>      This ended up being extremely challenging to build. Each curved leg is made of five angled segments, and I had to      shape the inside of the curve with an angle grinder and sand everything by hand. Floating the legs and top      required building a hidden octagonal frame that each of the legs could be bolted into. This took almost two      months to complete and a lot of careful adjustment to create equal spacing between the drawer, frame, and legs.    /p>  /div>  div stylegrid-column: 7 / 10; grid-row: 2; background: #4F3534; color: white; classpadded-on-left>    img srcimages-web/sanding-jaehee-desk.jpg stylewidth: 100%; />  /div>  img srcimages-web/IMG_4336.jpg    stylegrid-column: 1 / 4; grid-row: 3; width: 100%; height: 600px;  object-fit: cover; />  img srcimages-web/64591349255__A296255F-6EE9-40A6-B6FD-283ED6362387.jpg    stylegrid-column: 4 / 7; grid-row: 3; width: 100%; height: 600px;  object-fit: cover; />  img srcimages-web/64591314728__6BCCDC24-C638-4B10-9B3A-503BA270D5D4.jpg    stylegrid-column: 7 / 12; grid-row: 3; width: 100%; height: 600px; object-fit: cover; />/div>div classcontainer>  div stylegrid-column: 2 / 8; grid-row: 1;>    h1>Jute Rocking Chair div classdate stylecolor: #71423b;>December 2020/div>    /h1>  /div>/div>div classcontainer>  img srcimages-web/jute-chair-1.jpeg    stylegrid-column: 1 / 7; grid-row: 1; width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; object-position: 71% 20%; />  div stylegrid-column: 7 / 11; grid-row: 1; background: #71423b;>/div>  div stylegrid-column: 7 / 10; grid-row: 1; background: #71423b; color: white; classpadded-on-left>    p>      I saw a woven rocking chair on Instagram and decided to make one for my living room. I used 8/4 cherry for most of      the parts and sliced it in half to make      identical sides, which streamlined the process quite a bit. The bottom tracks took a ton of sanding      because flat spots in the bottom curve were immediately noticeable. Id use a template and flush trim router      bit instead of freehanding on the bandsaw if I did this again.    /p>    p>      The weaving took roughly 25 hours (2 entire seasons of The Expanse on Amazon Prime!), but Im pretty happy with      how      it turned out. I may need to make another one, because I had to buy 1000ft spools of cotton jute and I still have      almost all of it.    /p>    div styleheight: 30px>/div>    img srcimages-web/IMG_3001.jpg style max-width: 100%;  object-fit: cover; />    div styleheight: 30px>/div>    img srcimages-web/IMG_3009.jpg stylewidth: 100%; height: 500px; object-fit: cover; />  /div>/div>div classcontainer>  div stylegrid-column: 2 / 8; grid-row: 1;>    h1>Replica of a Noriyuki Ebina Desk div classdate stylecolor: #71423b;>July 2020/div>    /h1>  /div>/div>div classcontainer>  img srcimages-web/DSC00531-eb.jpg    stylegrid-column: 1 / 11; grid-row: 1; width: 100%; height: 60vw; object-fit: cover; object-position: 71% 20%; />  div stylegrid-column: 1 / 12; grid-row: 2; background: #4F3534;>/div>  div stylegrid-column: 2 / 6; grid-row: 2; background: #4F3534; color: white; classpadded-on-left>    p>      In May I was looking for a desk to make working at home more bearable and stumbled across a        hrefhttps://ookkuu.com/products/creer-desk target_blank>this $8,000 piece/a> by contemporary Japanese      designer Noriyuki Ebina. I fell in love with the design. It seemed like quite a challenge given the sweeping      angles of the legs and curves on the drawer face,      but unlike other furniture Id been admiring the angles were limited to a single plane. In this design there      arent any surfaces that curve in three dimensions that might require advanced tools like a CNC (like the chair I      struggled with.) I decided to replicate it as closely as possible and see how far I could get.    /p>    p>      It took 8 weekends at The Forge to create a version of the desk, largely because I had to cut the curves by      hand on the bandsaw and then cut the drawer face to match. I used a tabletop router to round over the surfaces      with a 3/4 router and Im pretty happy with the result.    /p>    p>      The whole desk is walnut and is finished with danish oil sanded to 120, 220, 800 grit (so it is just slightly      reflective). In the future, I think Ill invest in 2x the wood so that I can color-match the boards and have a      wider set of choices. My biggest regret with this piece is that the left leg and crossbeam on the front face      stained to very different tones.    /p>  /div>  div stylegrid-column: 6 / 10; grid-row: 2; background: #4F3534; color: white; classpadded-on-left>    img srcimages-web/IMG_3349.jpg stylewidth: 100%; />  /div>  img srcimages-web/DSC00533-e.jpg    stylegrid-column: 1 / 4; grid-row: 3; width: 100%; height: 600px;  object-fit: cover; />  img srcimages-web/DSC00522.JPG    stylegrid-column: 4 / 8; grid-row: 3; width: 100%; height: 600px;  object-fit: cover; />  img srcimages-web/DSC00524-e.jpg    stylegrid-column: 8 / 12; grid-row: 3; width: 100%; height: 600px; object-fit: cover; />/div>div classcontainer>  div stylegrid-column: 2 / 8; grid-row: 1;>    h1>Cherry Side Table div classdate stylecolor: #71423b;>March 2020/div>    /h1>  /div>/div>div classcontainer>  img srcimages-web/DSC00558-ecropped.jpg    stylegrid-column: 1 / 7; grid-row: 1; width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; object-position: 71% 20%; />  div stylegrid-column: 7 / 11; grid-row: 1; background: #71423b;>/div>  div stylegrid-column: 7 / 10; grid-row: 1; background: #71423b; color: white; classpadded-on-left>    p>      This March I built a small cherry side table with a red cedar inlay (wood I found discarded at The Forge!) Im      hoping to make a bed frame to accompany this piece soon.    /p>    p>      This was my first attempt at an inlay and Im not sure the two woods were the best choice—as the cherry has      aged, it has become more similar in color to the red cedar, making the stripes across the top fairly subtle.    /p>    div styleheight: 30px>/div>    img srcimages-web/IMG_1735.jpg style max-width: 100%;  object-fit: cover; />    div styleheight: 30px>/div>    img srcimages-web/C925A284-6A8B-445E-8024-FF9270B8A40A.JPG      stylewidth: 100%; height: 500px; object-fit: cover; />  /div>/div>div classcontainer>  div stylegrid-column: 2 / 8; grid-row: 1;>    h1>Mid-century Cat Couch div classdate stylecolor: #8E5A39;>Feb 2020/div>    /h1>  /div>/div>div classcontainer>  img srcimages-web/IMG_1148.jpg    stylegrid-column: 1 / 12; grid-row: 1; width: 100%; height: 700px; object-position: 50% 80%; object-fit: cover; />  div stylegrid-column: 1 / 12; grid-row: 2; background: #1e201f;>/div>  div stylegrid-column: 2 / 5; grid-row: 2; background: #1e201f; color: white; classpadded-on-left>    p>      In early January I saw a picture of a small Japanese fouton maker that sold cat-sized versions of each of their      beds. I immediately decided cat couches were an unrealized market on Instagram and created this prototype, based      loosely on a        hrefhttps://www.incollect.com/listings/furniture/seating/ib-kofod-larsen-midcentury-scandinavian-sofa-kandidaten-by-ib-kofod-larsen-328263        taret_blank>a design by Swedish mid-century designer Ib Kofod Larsen/a>.    /p>    p>      The prototype was a hit with my (star litigator) girlfriends cat and I am still hoping to create more of them for      the high-end Instagram cat market. This was also my first sewing machine project—it turns out you cannot buy      cat-couch-sized cushions anywhere for a reasonable price. (I know, what a shock right?)    /p>  /div>  div    stylegrid-column: 6 / 9; grid-row: 2; width: 100%; height: 100%; background:url(images-web/IMG_1058.jpg); background-position: 40% 70%; background-size: cover;>  /div>  div    stylegrid-column: 9 / 12; grid-row: 2; width: 100%; height: 100%; background:url(images-web/IMG_0928.jpg); background-size: cover;>  /div>/div>div classcontainer>  div stylegrid-column: 2 / 8; grid-row: 1;>    h1>Hall Bench div classdate stylecolor: #8E5A39;>January 2020/div>    /h1>  /div>/div>div classcontainer>  div stylegrid-column: 1 / 12; grid-row: 1; background: #40270b;>/div>  div stylegrid-column: 2 / 7; grid-row: 1; background: #40270b; color: white; classpadded-on-left>    p>      After struggling to build my first chair in October, I decided to practice mortise and tennon joinery by building      a small bench (with 16 mortise and tennon joints). This turned out to be very time consuming because I didnt know      that square mortising bits exist for drill presses and chiseled each mortise square by hand.    /p>    p>      I let the project sit for a while before deciding to finish it by cutting down a bunch of scraps to the same width      and gluing them up to create an intricate top surface. This worked, but I quickly discovered that the piece was      not entirely the same depth along its length and had to adjust the size of the square connecting pieces to      accomodate the inconsistencies.    /p>    p>      In retrospect I think this turned out beautifully but would have been easier if I had not used scraps for the top      surface. At roughly 9 deep, it is also not em>quite/em> big enough to be useful as a shoe rack which is      unfortunate - it serves no practical purpose in my apartment.    /p>  /div>  img srcimages-web/DSC00548-e.jpg    stylegrid-column: 1 / 8; grid-row: 2; width: 100%; object-position: 50% 80%; object-fit: cover; />  div    stylegrid-column: 8 / 12; grid-row: 1 / 3; width: 100%; height: 100%; background:url(images-web/82D69557-B7FF-4237-9A30-4D0CEB0A4644.JPG); background-position: 60% 70%; background-size: cover;>  /div>/div>div classcontainer>  div stylegrid-column: 2 / 8; grid-row: 1;>    h1>Replica of Neva Bar Chair div classdate stylecolor: #71423b;>October 2019/div>    /h1>  /div>/div>div classcontainer>  div    stylegrid-column: 1 / 4; grid-row: 1; width: 100%; background:url(images-web/F60FED57-E0A8-462C-9DB2-15FB05EA39E7.JPG); background-position: 0% 80%; background-size: cover;>  /div>  div    stylegrid-column: 4 / 8; grid-row: 1; width: 100%; background:url(images-web/IMG_9892.jpg); background-size: cover; background-position: 71% 20%;>  /div>  div    stylegrid-column: 8 / 12; grid-row: 1; width: 100%; height: 50vw; background:url(images-web/IMG_9975 3.jpg); background-size: cover;background-position: 50% 20%;>  /div>  div stylegrid-column: 1 / 12; grid-row: 2; background: #71423b;>/div>  div stylegrid-column: 2 / 6; grid-row: 2; background: #71423b; color: white; classpadded-on-left>    p>      My apartment in Nashville has a long kitchen counter and I found these stunning a        hrefimages/Neva light bar chair1.JPG target_blank>Neva bar-height stools/a> on Pinterest. I decided to      try to replicate them, but struggled to determine how to build the legs, which swoop up and across (while      maintaining a slight backward tilt) to create the seat back.    /p>    p>      I created two back legs with as much of a built-in curve as I could, and then cut many vertical slices with angled      faces to create a curved back. After gluing the slices together, I used an angle grinder to smooth the inner and      outer surfaces.    /p>    p>      In retrospect, this design was flawed in several ways. I didnt use dominos to strengthen the joints, and I should      have used overlapping horizontal bricks of wood to strengthen the design. The glue-up angles and number of      slices also dictated the chairs final width, and my first attempt created a curve that was too narrow to sit in—I      had to cut the back in half on the table saw and insert an additional segment to make it wider.    /p>  /div>  div stylegrid-column: 6 / 10; grid-row: 2; background: #71423b; color: white; classpadded-on-left>    p>      At the end of the day, I think this piece had two critical mistakes. I installed the supporting cross beams at the      bottom of the chair without cutting the legs to height—the chair is actually ~6 too tall for my counter,      and cutting it shorter would leave the footrest bar nearly touching the floor! I also use an odd tounge and groove      joinery style in which notches in the crossbeams fit into grooves cut perpendicular into the vertical legs. This      was easy to do on the table saw but the walnut teeth turned out to be brittle and would likely break over time      (mortise and tennon or half lap joints would have been better). I plan to revisit this project and apply all the      lessons learned to a second iteration soon!    /p>  /div>/div>div classcontainer>  div stylegrid-column: 2 / 8; grid-row: 1;>    h1>Coffee Table div classdate stylecolor: #8E5A39;>July 2019/div>    /h1>  /div>/div>div classcontainer>  img srcimages-web/IMG_8976.jpg    stylegrid-column: 1 / 7; grid-row: 1; width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; />  div stylegrid-column: 7 / 11; grid-row: 1; background: #858173;>/div>  div stylegrid-column: 7 / 10; grid-row: 1; background: #858173; color: white; classpadded-on-left>    p>      One of my first major woodworking projects, my coffee table was a copy of a design I found on Pinterest. The top      is red oak with waterfall edges and the supporting beams are walnut. This project took longer than I expected      because the angles were too odd for me to calculate the height of the inner compartment and I had to build the      legs and measure the drop distance to the arms to size the top correctly.    /p>    p>      This project was fun because it also taught me that the precise angles dont matter, only the relationships      between them. I cut a few reference triangles and based the entire design off those rather than trying to measure      the angle needed for each cut. The result was easier to reason about and fit together!    /p>    div styleheight: 30px>/div>    img srcimages-web/IMG_8978.jpg style max-width: 100%;  object-fit: cover; />    div styleheight: 30px>/div>    img srcimages-web/IMG_8982.jpg style max-width: 100%;  object-fit: cover; />  /div>/div>div classcontainer>  div stylegrid-column: 2 / 8; grid-row: 1;>    h1>Voronoi Mesh Raybans div classdate stylecolor: #8E5A39;>July 2018/div>    /h1>  /div>/div>div classcontainer>  img srcimages-web/raybans_final.jpg    stylegrid-column: 1 / 7; grid-row: 1; width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; object-position: 80% 50%; />  div stylegrid-column: 7 / 11; grid-row: 1; background: #8E5A39;>/div>  div stylegrid-column: 7 / 10; grid-row: 1; background: #8E5A39; color: white; classpadded-on-left>    h2>Motivation/h2>    p>      In 2018, living in San Francisco and realizing that everyone was an engineer with a rock climbing hobby left me      feeling pretty basic. To add some creativity to my life beyond my cool socks, I decided to build custom side walls      for a pair of ray-bans. Using a pair of calipers I precisely measured my existing pair and built them in      Fusion360.    /p>    p>I ran an algorithm provided by a Fusion360 plugin to generate unique vornoii mesh patterns and selected two to      boolean subtract from the solid side walls, creating cut-out regions that resemble patterns generated organically      in nature.    /p>    p>This was my first project using Fusion360s live history feature—being able to reason about the design as      a series of operations and being able to revise steps and re-run the subsequent operations allowed me to iterate      on the vornoii pattern until I found one that looked structurally sound and printable (no large gaps, no places      where a single bubble divides the frame)./p>  /div>/div>div classcontainer>  div stylegrid-column: 2 / 5; grid-row: 1; color: black; classpadded-on-right>    h2>Revisions/h2>    p>      It turned out to be fairly challenging to 3D print these parts because the side walls need to be thick enough to      stay on your face while flexing a bit for comfort. The ends also needed to curve in more than I expected for them      to fit comfortably behind the ear and stay on while looking down. Finally, I needed to build mount points that the      original Rayban screws would screw into, which required fabricating holes a bit too small and allowing the screws      to tear into the plastic just a bit.    /p>    p>      After several revisions from Shapeways I was able to wear the glasses and called it a day, but they still fall off      a bit more easily than the original Ray-bans.    /p>  /div>  img srcimages-web/raybans_edits.png    stylegrid-column: 5 / 10; grid-row: 1; max-width: 100%; align-self: center; />/div>div classcontainer>  div stylegrid-column: 7 / 11; grid-row: 1; background: #8E5A39;>/div>  img srcimages-web/raybans_side.jpg    stylegrid-column: 1 / 7; grid-row: 1; width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; object-position: 70% 50%; />  div stylegrid-column: 7 / 10; grid-row: 1; background: #8E5A39; color: white; classpadded-on-left>    h2>Final Product/h2>    p>      Overall Im pleased with the final result and I think itd be fun to apply this approach to more things in the      future. Another iteration might have left me with side walls that held to my face a bit better but I got impatient      waiting for Shapeways delivery. I was also curious about making the parts out of Shapeways new laser-fused      Aluminum, but it would require that they fit preciesely since they would be unlikely to flex as much as the hard      plastic.    /p>    p>      Edit: Sadly I lost these sunglasses after about two years. This is why I cant have nice things.    /p>  /div>/div>div classcontainer>  div stylegrid-column: 2 / 5; grid-row: 1; margin-top: 100px;>    h1>Wedding Band div classdate stylecolor: #BC813A;>August 2016/div>    /h1>  /div>/div>div classcontainer>  div stylegrid-column: 1 / 11; grid-row: 1; background: black;>/div>  div    stylegrid-column: 2 / 7; grid-row: 1; background: black; display: flex; width: 100%; align-items: center; padding: 5vw 0;>    img srcimages-web/band_3d_1.png styleflex: 1; width: 50%; max-width: 100%; />    img srcimages-web/band_3d_2.png styleflex: 1; width: 50%; max-width: 100%; />  /div>  div stylegrid-column: 7 / 10; grid-row: 1; background: black; color: white; classpadded-on-left>    h2>Motivation/h2>    p>      When I started looking for wedding bands, I had a hard time finding one that reflected how I felt. I believed that      my marriage would always be a work-in-progress—a journey more than a destination. I wanted to create a      wedding band that would look better as the years wore on, something that might grow weathered by travel and      adventure alongside my hands. Something that might take on years of scuffs and dents as a mark of strength and not      a mark of age.    /p>    p>The Shapeways finishing process smoothed the surface significantly, and the final product was a bit more rounded      than I expected—but the two dozen flat faces still reflect the softness and organic feeling that I wanted.    /p>  /div>/div>div classcontainer>  div stylegrid-column: 1 / 11; grid-row: 1; background: black;>/div>  div stylegrid-column: 7 / 10; grid-row: 1; background: black; color: white; opacity: 0.5; padding-top: 20px;    classpadded-on-left>    Autodesk Maya | a hrefwww.blendswap.com/blends/view/82230 target_blank>Ring Template for Shapeways/a>br />    Shapeways Polished Brass $34br />    Shapeways Matte Gold Steel $14br />    Shapeways Yellow Versatile Plastic $3.50br />    Shapeways 18k Yellow Gold $771br />    Posted on GitHub: a hrefhttps://github.com/bengotow/wedding-band target_blank>bengotow/wedding-band/a>  /div>  div stylegrid-column: 2 / 7; grid-row: 1; background: black; color: white; classpadded-on-left>    h2>Tools & Process/h2>    p>      I designed this band in Autodesk Maya and had it cast in plastic by Shapeways. After a few iterations (and making      sure that it fit), I ordered one in 14k gold. The Shapeways gold fabriation process involved making a wax 3D      print, creating a ceramic mold from the wax, heating it and removing the wax, and then pouring in gold—and      ended up costing $780./p>    div styleheight: 40px;>/div>    h2>Final Product/h2>  /div>/div>div classcontainer>  img srcimages-web/band_top_ps.jpg stylegrid-column: 1 / 6; grid-row: 1; max-width: 100%;>  img srcimages-web/band_full.jpg stylegrid-column: 6 / 11; grid-row: 1; max-width: 100%;>/div>div classcontainer>  div stylegrid-column: 2 / 10; grid-row: 1; margin-top: 100px;>    h1>Bike Frame Lighting div classdate stylecolor: #D51A09;>February 2015/div>    /h1>  /div>/div>div classcontainer>  div stylegrid-column: 1 / 7; grid-row: 1; position: relative; background: white;>    img idbike_night srcimages-web/bike_night.jpg      stylewidth: 100%; top: 0; position: absolute; z-index: 2; opacity: 0;>    img idbike_day srcimages-web/bike_day.jpg stylewidth: 100%; z-index: 1;>  /div>  div stylegrid-column: 7 / 10; grid-row: 1; color: black; classpadded-on-left>    h2>Motivation/h2>    p>      I fell in love with biking when I moved to San Francisco, and I regularly commuted to work through the Mission and      Noe Valley. SF is pretty far north and got dark early in the winter (seriously, at like 4:30pm) and I struggled to      find affordable bike lights that could compete with city lights.    /p>    p>I bought red and white LED strips from Adafruit and mounted them to the bike frame and bolted a 15V power supply      beneath the bike seat. It had to be charged every few days, but made the bike easy to spot and helped me feel safe      commuting at night. The best part is it only cost ~$40, much cheaper than the expensive kits for sale on Valencia.    /p>  /div>/div>div classcontainer>  div    stylegrid-column: 2 / 10; grid-row: 1; margin-top: 80px; text-align: center; margin-bottom: 80px; font-size: 2em; opacity: 0.5;>    h1>⏚/h1>  /div>/div>!-- div classcontainer>  div stylegrid-column: 2 / 6; grid-row: 1;    h2>Across the States Necklace div classdate stylecolor: #8E5A39;>July 2018/div>/h2>    div styleposition: relative; background: white;>        img idnecklace_finished srcimages-web/necklace_finished_adjusted.jpg stylewidth: 100%; top: 0; position: absolute; z-index: 2; opacity: 0;>        img idnecklace_design srcimages-web/necklace_design_adjusted.png stylewidth: 100%; z-index: 1;>      /div>  /div>  div stylegrid-column: 6 / 10; grid-row: 1;    h2>Across the States Necklace/h2>    div styleposition: relative; background: white;>        img idnecklace_finished srcimages-web/necklace_finished_adjusted.jpg stylewidth: 100%; top: 0; position: absolute; z-index: 2; opacity: 0;>        img idnecklace_design srcimages-web/necklace_design_adjusted.png stylewidth: 100%; z-index: 1;>      /div>  /div>/div>/div> -->script>  function asScrollOver(a, b) {    window.addEventListener(scroll, () > {      const aRect  a.getBoundingClientRect()      b.style.opacity  1 - Math.min(1, Math.max(0, aRect.top - 100) / 500.0);    })  }  asScrollOver(document.getElementById(bike_day), document.getElementById(bike_night))  asScrollOver(document.getElementById(necklace_design), document.getElementById(necklace_finished))/script>/div>

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